With summer rapidly coming to an end it’s time for many car enthusiasts to put away their vehicle for the chilly months ahead.  The last thing classic owners want is to find rust, rot, mildew, blistered paint, dead batteries or seized parts because of the kiwi winter. As you make preparations to hibernate your classic this winter consider some of these useful tips.

Fill your petrol tank

This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish. Use a fuel additive. And make sure it’s well mixed by taking the car for a decent run to guarantee it’s through the entire fuel system.

Use antifreeze in your coolant system

In the colder areas of NZ freezing temperatures will naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even in warmer areas or where the vehicle is being kept in tepid conditions it’s still best to use anti-freeze. Many of the newer range of coolants have strong corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine more may be required for extremely cold climates. Again make sure to run the car so it’s mixed throughout the entire system.

Change the engine oil

Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the spark plugs and liberally squirt some form of ‘upper-cylinder lubricant’ into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.

Make sure the brake and clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid

Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis regardless, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.

Take the car on a good half-hour run

This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine.

Use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces

This will prevent rust in the engine bay. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc.

Clean the entire car inside and out

Wash the car carefully, and apply a good wax. Don’t forget to clean the underside as well — clumps of mud harbour moisture that can start the rusting process. Clean and polish chrome brightwork (leave it slightly hazy to ensure wax protection). Clean the inside with a vacuum cleaner and wash all surfaces. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage. You can use protectants on vinyl and rubber surfaces. Polish leather and wood. Clean metal switches and brass components.

Convertibles

If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop permanent creases when folded for long periods, especially in our winter climate. Treat vinyl tops with silicone or similar.

Protecting against vermin and moisture

Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs or moisture absorbers and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior – a necessity in more humid areas like Northland.

Ensure that the boot is clean and dry

The boot seal is not always airtight and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner rear-guards and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place another desiccant sac in the boot too before closing it up.

Parking it up

Park the car with the hand brake off as it can seize easily. It’s best to chock the wheels if possible or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tyres by around 5 psi can help guard against flat spots, or raise the car on jack stands (in which case you can remove the wheels completely and stack them flat (with cardboard between). Covering the tyres will prevent sun damage.

Grease

Pack universal joints with fresh grease, and attend to steering and suspension areas.

Clutch

Depress the clutch and use a piece of wood to brace it so the clutch plates are separated. This will prevent them sticking together. Only do this for mechanical clutches, not hydraulic ones.

The battery

Disconnect the battery, or connect it to a trickle charger to keep it fresh.

Covering your car

If you are going to cover it a breathable cloth car cover is better than a plastic cover. Even better (but more expensive) still is a car cocoon which maintains temperature and humidity. There are also companies that will store your classic car for you.

Short drives

To maintain your vehicle through the winter months you can take it on short drives when the weather is dry. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing metals from corroding and seals drying out. Don’t just start the engine and let it run for a few minutes — this will cause condensation in the pipes. Our winters are short, so it’s not necessary to do this, unless your car specifically has trouble with seizing.

Insurance

You may qualify for a discounted classic car insurance policy if you don’t drive your car much. Make sure you’re insured through the winter months.

Fix any flaws in your storage area. If your garage leaks, it’s best to fix it. Ensure it locks as well – make it difficult for potential thieves.

And now you’re done. It may seem like a lot of work, but taking these precautions can save you money in repair and maintenance bills next summer.